This post is the second part of my second day at Siem Reap. See first part here, first day here. Food experience first day here.
Angkor Thom is one of the largest Khmer cities ever built. The total area of 900 hectares is now mostly forest but originally a considerable city.
Gate to the city. We went by tuktuk because there’s no way you could go around on foot. It’s practically a city. There are a number of individual temples inside.
I told you you’re going to see the gods (or asuras/demons? I really can’t tell the difference.) holding naga again. They’re everywhere.
Bayon

We went straight to Bayon, which is right in the middle of Angkor Thom. Bayon is one of the most famous temple among Angkor temples. It’s one of my favorites too. It’s supported by Japan and UNESCO for preservation of the world cultural heritage.

You would see all around Siem Reap (or Cambodia) the paintings of Bayon. Especially the face tower. I kept wondering whose face it was. It’s probably the face of their King or something.
“The temple is extremely complex both in terms of its structure and meaning. It uses, uniquely, a mass of face-towers to create a stone mountain of ascending peaks. There is some dispute about the number of towers. There were originally 49 towers even though Paul Mus thought there should be 54. Today only 37 are standing. Most are carved with four faces on each cardinal point but sometimes there are only there or even just two. The central tower has many more. Readers are invited to write in when they counted them all. Whatever the final number the overall effect is quite overwhelming.”
~ excerpt from the guide book, Ancient Angkor

Had lunch before we continued (separate post).
Baphuon
Still in Angkor Thom area, next temple was Baphuon. It’s restored in collaboration with French.

Baphuon’s signature is the long high causeway to the main building, with pond on each side…

… and the rocks. Crazy number of loose rocks scattered around the yard. Apparently the condition of the temple was so bad that they had to lay out all the loose rocks and need to put them back like 3D puzzle! All rock was numbered/marked to be put back into a complete temple. Walau, the job must suck real bad. It took them (and I assume is still going) years to figure out which goes to where.

More rocks…
We’ve actually seen something similar at other temples, including Bayon, but Baphuon had significantly more numbers of loose rocks.

View from the top. Beyond this was a lot of restoration work going on. They also put some new rocks in, and I thought they must have given up trying to find the right rock to fill certain slots, might as well make a new one =P
Elephant Terrace

Next one was Elephant Terrace, which was the foundation for royal reception pavilions. The carving of elephants along its walls give it its modern name. Somehow I always imagine elephants actually walking on the terrace a long time ago. Of course this is not true.
We were in the middle of the terrace when it suddenly rained pretty hard and we couldn’t find our tuktuk. We took cover under some tree, but it got too heavy. So when it slowed down a bit, we quickly ran to the nearby eating stalls…

… and had a coconut ;).
Coconuts were everywhere in Siem Reap and dirt cheap. One coconut was 2000 Riel (50c). They would always try to sell you more though. So if you ask, instead of saying 1 for 50c, they would say 2 for one dollar (one dollar again! It’s the magic word. Everything also one dollar.) But you can insist that you only want to buy 1 for 2000 Riel, they’d give up in exactly 2 seconds. Somehow they always had the coconut opened only small enough for a straw. So you can’t take the meat out. I suspect they wanted to eat the meat themselves or use it to cook something else.

A painter busy painting Angkor Wat just in front of us. My mind wondered if I were to live there, painting everyday, open-air, sometimes in the middle of the rain. Maybe sell some small paintings for bread and butter (or rice and vegie ;), while working seriously on the big one. One day someone who can really appreciate my hard work would buy it with a good price. Then I could live comfortably for a while working on another big painting. Would I just be happy?
Well, enough daydreaming. We went back to the Terrace when the rain stopped for a bit.


There are a lot of elephants carving on the side of the terrace. That’s where it got its name from.

The five-headed horse! We saw it on the guide book, saying that it’s somewhere on the hidden wall. And we accidentally found it!
Phimeanakas
Our tuktuk driver was so nice, he had 2 raincoats for us. So we could continue exploring even though it drizzled.
By this time we got pretty tired though. Because of the heat in the morning and afternoon, then the rain. So when I saw another steep steps with ‘Climb at your own risk’ sign again with deep canal just at the foot of the stairs, I thought naahh.. I’ll pass the climbing this time.

We went around a bit more since the temple had a big garden and pond and all, but the rain made everything uncomfortable. It was really hot and humid under the raincoat too. So we were sweating like monkeys with raincoats.
By this time I started to get really worry about my camera. First the battery almost died. Second I ran out of memory card, and I didn’t bring the cable to transfer the pictures. Siem Reap was a very small town, which we assumed of course, technologically behind. So we were just praying that we could find either a place that sold SONY memory card, or place that had SONY memory card reader (Note that my camera is SONY, so the memory card is not the standard one. It’s SONY memory card.) Well at the end we found a big photo shop that had both new SONY memory card and SONY memory card reader. I decided to just transfer the pictures and burnt them to a CD. Cost $5, $2 for the CD, $3 for the transfer. I just remember thereafter that I had my 2GB thumbdrive with me and I could just transfer the pictures to it.
Thommanon
This “mini” temple was neat and compact. And when we were there there was almost nobody around, because it was pretty late and after rain. So we managed to take quite a few good pictures.


It’s almost like a mini Angkor Wat, with its not so high steps and low ceilings.

Complete with library. We started to recognize library building. It’s always separated from the main building, and has certain squarish shape to it. This mini library though, was so small and dark inside that I wondered how the people in the old time actually used the place as library. I mean they didn’t have any electricity before, right? Do you really wanna bring fire to a room full of papers?

A pretty well reserved lady carving. Either that or they remade restored it.
Chau Say Tevoda
Our last temple for the day was this very small temple that was obviously still under heavy restoration, in collaboration with China.

There was a hut next to the temple with all the pictures and stories of restoration (the same thing with the temple with thousands of rocks lying around in its yard). There was also a big guestbook where people can sign and write crap. I wrote something too. In case you went there next time, look for our name ;)
If you notice, we’ve changed clothes to the Cambodian shirts we just bought because the rain wet ours. My shirt has Khmer characters at the front side and back.
Then we just called it a day. We were worried the photo shops we were looking for closed early (at the end I got to transfer my pictures, so it was all good). We went back to the hostel after that, setting up appointment with our tuktuk driver for 5am in the morning the next day to catch the sunrise. Took shower, went out to get dinner (separate post), and slept. Even longer days ahead.




















































